Ford Sierra Cosworth 4x4 Q8 Oils - Rally Monte Carlo 1991
Dear Modelers,
Its a pleasure to share in this Blog my experience making this model. Why not? I can say, the best model i have ever made.
First of all I separed from the blister all the pieces, sanded a bit and the cleaned with "Fairy".
After that all the parts are ready to primer.
Following the instruccions normaly a prepare the car in three parts, bottom side, interior and outside.
Bottom side:
I painted using the white color from ford (in my case from gravity colors) all the bottom side and the i used different greys as liquid silver from vallejo, or sauber mica silver c9 from zero paint for the other parts. The red and blue parts i painted in tamiya clear blue x-23 and clear red x27. Other colors for some details are the liquid Gold from Vallejo.
For the discs i painted first in liquid silver and then i applied the red or the blue to get this effect as a metálicos blue or red.
For the exhaust, normally i paint with the metallic silver and then i combine with many colors, only small amount of brown rust color from vallejo, and some purple in the parts where the exhaust have more temperature.
The covers of the engine i use diferent kind of colors: medium yellow and orange rust and us interior yellow from vallejo
Interior Part:
Probanly this is one of the most amazing parts in the models... and then probably you will not see again. But in my case allways i put a lot of effort.
First i painted the interior and the roll cage using the ford color from gravity colors. Also i laqued to get this shinny efect. After that I painted the red and the black from the roll cage.
After that I started with the dashboard. I painted everything in Black, and then I coherència the parts that I want to keep in fine black and I painted the others in black but in the color i added some "polvos talco" to be honest i don t know the name in english. This gives a effect more rough.
The other is to use a stick to get more detail And paint all the buttons in different colors.
For the yellow line in the steering wheel i used masking tape, and I painted in yellow.
For yhe seats, i had not py to much attention to the stickers from the model and I didn’t see the fiver efect, but anyway like in the other models i use the medium yellow from vallejo and then I laqued. To give in the black this effect as a tèxtil i used the same method as the dashboard. "Polvos talco in the black color"
More photos about interior
Paint work:
Here is the most challenging part of the model. From the instruccions you can choose 2 options, take the stickers from the model or paint you the lines. The thing is the stickers have a different color than the paints. I think firescalemodelers have the colors to match exacltly with the stickers.
My choice was to do the lines from my self, also after follow the other modeler "modelcarsrally" and how he did it.
It's not easy but I recomend to do the lines. Finally i used the colors from firescalemodelers beige, blue and signal blue. For the lines i used the red 72.003 from vallejo and yellow from firescalemodelers fsc231 from ford escord cosworth (Pilot).
I started with the cream color creating a bigger área than the lines needed and also the two small bottom parts. Then I use a masking tape from tamiya and one good thing is the thickness of the lines are the same as the masking tape 6mm.
Then is masking the beige using the good angle and the horitzontal small line (this have a smaller tickness). Using the 6mm masking tape I used as a reference the horitzontal bumper of the doors to keep allways the position of the bottom lines. Also using the thicknes of the masking tape i covered the future red line and future yellow line. After that I painted all the rear with the clear blue.
After one day drying i masked the clear blue and I removed the horitzontal yellow line, and painted. After one day drying, you mask again the yellow and the same with the red. After all of this process, we masked all of new painted part and I painted all the car with the dark blue.
Probably in the photos is more easy to understand.
Here is the most challenging part of the model. From the instruccions you can choose 2 options, take the stickers from the model or paint you the lines. The thing is the stickers have a different color than the paints. I think firescalemodelers have the colors to match exacltly with the stickers.
My choice was to do the lines from my self, also after follow the other modeler "modelcarsrally" and how he did it.
It's not easy but I recomend to do the lines. Finally i used the colors from firescalemodelers beige, blue and signal blue. For the lines i used the red 72.003 from vallejo and yellow from firescalemodelers fsc231 from ford escord cosworth (Pilot).
I started with the cream color creating a bigger área than the lines needed and also the two small bottom parts. Then I use a masking tape from tamiya and one good thing is the thickness of the lines are the same as the masking tape 6mm.
Then is masking the beige using the good angle and the horitzontal small line (this have a smaller tickness). Using the 6mm masking tape I used as a reference the horitzontal bumper of the doors to keep allways the position of the bottom lines. Also using the thicknes of the masking tape i covered the future red line and future yellow line. After that I painted all the rear with the clear blue.
After one day drying i masked the clear blue and I removed the horitzontal yellow line, and painted. After one day drying, you mask again the yellow and the same with the red. After all of this process, we masked all of new painted part and I painted all the car with the dark blue.
Probably in the photos is more easy to understand.
DECALS:
This process was in the past one of the most dificults for me. But after get some tips from other modelers like Borja from bp_scalecars and Joan from Chronicmodels now is way more easy.
The tip is to use micro set and micro sol.
Micro set: softens decals and improves the adhesion. (Normally only using this is enough)
Micro sol: softens decals to conform to irregular surfaces ( i use this when you need to copy an irregular surface, like a bumper, rounded part, but be carefull because it is easy to breake the decal after use this one.
How i use: put the decal in destilled water, meanwile with a paintbrush i paint the área where I want to stick the decal with micro set. After 30 seconds.. aprox, i take the paper where the decal is inside an i push the decal with the paintbrush in the location. In this moment if you need to apply more water or micro set to help you to move the decal arount the model you can do it.One time the decal is well located, i remove the water inside with a cotton ear sticks (i soak them before to not tear off the decal).
If the surface is not fully flat, is when I use the red product (micro sol) one time the decal is located i apply over the micro sol and after the application i use a dryer with a certain distance to help the decal to copy the surface. Sometimes is necessary to repeat the proces many times.
some decals after 1 day drying looks like painted in the model.
This process was in the past one of the most dificults for me. But after get some tips from other modelers like Borja from bp_scalecars and Joan from Chronicmodels now is way more easy.
The tip is to use micro set and micro sol.
Micro set: softens decals and improves the adhesion. (Normally only using this is enough)
Micro sol: softens decals to conform to irregular surfaces ( i use this when you need to copy an irregular surface, like a bumper, rounded part, but be carefull because it is easy to breake the decal after use this one.
How i use: put the decal in destilled water, meanwile with a paintbrush i paint the área where I want to stick the decal with micro set. After 30 seconds.. aprox, i take the paper where the decal is inside an i push the decal with the paintbrush in the location. In this moment if you need to apply more water or micro set to help you to move the decal arount the model you can do it.One time the decal is well located, i remove the water inside with a cotton ear sticks (i soak them before to not tear off the decal).
If the surface is not fully flat, is when I use the red product (micro sol) one time the decal is located i apply over the micro sol and after the application i use a dryer with a certain distance to help the decal to copy the surface. Sometimes is necessary to repeat the proces many times.
some decals after 1 day drying looks like painted in the model.
CLEAR COAT
For this part i recommend to see this video tutorial in youtube from Focus, it gives a lot of good tòpics.
https://youtu.be/rO3pyz5GltQ?si=JXc5siKnNx1Ksuyy
Ford my Sierra i used the 2k clear from gravity models.
First and important the chamber where you paint needs to be around 18 to 25 degrees. Because the coat is a kind of resin and this needs to be really fluid.
Second before apply the clear coat we need to clear the surface with a antistatic cleaner brush. I used the tamiya, its expensive, but trust me, its impressive how it works to keep away the dust.
To start is to paint a first layer of clear coating really thin. This will not give a shinny effect, only helps to stick the clear coat. After 5 minutes apply again the second layer with bigger amount of clear coat.
Finally after 5 minutes i apply the third with big amount of clear coat.
To aboid the orange peal I apply in the second and third layer big amount of clear coat and also I try to keep the painted surface in vertical (helping to fluid down the claer coat).
POLISH
only if is necessary. Sometimes the result from the clear coat is quite perfect.
In my case i only polish some details around the doors.
For this normally i sanded the part with the discs from 3M trizact (allways with water). First I use a 3000 grid and then 5000 grid. After that I aplly Meguiar's ultimate compound and clean the area with a microfibre or using a dremel with the discs for this purpose from gravity colors (Polishing wheel). Always the dremel at really low speed and taking care the edges, because in this zones the amount of clear coat is really low and you can remove completly and also the paint.
and finally to get a better result i used a ultimate polish from Meguiar's.
For this part i recommend to see this video tutorial in youtube from Focus, it gives a lot of good tòpics.
https://youtu.be/rO3pyz5GltQ?si=JXc5siKnNx1Ksuyy
Ford my Sierra i used the 2k clear from gravity models.
First and important the chamber where you paint needs to be around 18 to 25 degrees. Because the coat is a kind of resin and this needs to be really fluid.
Second before apply the clear coat we need to clear the surface with a antistatic cleaner brush. I used the tamiya, its expensive, but trust me, its impressive how it works to keep away the dust.
To start is to paint a first layer of clear coating really thin. This will not give a shinny effect, only helps to stick the clear coat. After 5 minutes apply again the second layer with bigger amount of clear coat.
Finally after 5 minutes i apply the third with big amount of clear coat.
To aboid the orange peal I apply in the second and third layer big amount of clear coat and also I try to keep the painted surface in vertical (helping to fluid down the claer coat).
POLISH
only if is necessary. Sometimes the result from the clear coat is quite perfect.
In my case i only polish some details around the doors.
For this normally i sanded the part with the discs from 3M trizact (allways with water). First I use a 3000 grid and then 5000 grid. After that I aplly Meguiar's ultimate compound and clean the area with a microfibre or using a dremel with the discs for this purpose from gravity colors (Polishing wheel). Always the dremel at really low speed and taking care the edges, because in this zones the amount of clear coat is really low and you can remove completly and also the paint.
and finally to get a better result i used a ultimate polish from Meguiar's.
GLASS Windows & Lights
To get a really shinny glass we can use the same method as before to polish. Sand and then apply compound and polish. The result is really good.
My only tip here, is to get a lot of care with the big glasses to not bend. Because the scratches over the surface you can repair using the polish method, but if you make an internal scatch due to bend to match the pice could be an important damage.
Then is apply the stickers from the model to mask the parts that you don’t want to paint and paint with black. In my case I use black paint from vallejo (model air) and finally I apply gloss satin from vallejo. This last one i applied director, without drying the other.
Rear black lights. I polished after remove the piece from the blister and I added mask tape in the red zone. First I painted a really thin layer with the areograf (black but really transparent). After this, i applied by hand over the black color Panel line with a paintbrush. For the red light i painted by paintbrush using a permanent red Staedler. Then to adjust the área between red and black i painted by hand with the paintbrush using the panel line black.
Front black light, i masked the área and the I used the black from vallejo Model air. After i applied gloss satin from Vallejo. After paint the part with vallejo paints, when you remove the masking tape, if you need to clean some bad result, you can use a paintbrush with thinner. Is easy to remove.
To get a really shinny glass we can use the same method as before to polish. Sand and then apply compound and polish. The result is really good.
My only tip here, is to get a lot of care with the big glasses to not bend. Because the scratches over the surface you can repair using the polish method, but if you make an internal scatch due to bend to match the pice could be an important damage.
Then is apply the stickers from the model to mask the parts that you don’t want to paint and paint with black. In my case I use black paint from vallejo (model air) and finally I apply gloss satin from vallejo. This last one i applied director, without drying the other.
Rear black lights. I polished after remove the piece from the blister and I added mask tape in the red zone. First I painted a really thin layer with the areograf (black but really transparent). After this, i applied by hand over the black color Panel line with a paintbrush. For the red light i painted by paintbrush using a permanent red Staedler. Then to adjust the área between red and black i painted by hand with the paintbrush using the panel line black.
Front black light, i masked the área and the I used the black from vallejo Model air. After i applied gloss satin from Vallejo. After paint the part with vallejo paints, when you remove the masking tape, if you need to clean some bad result, you can use a paintbrush with thinner. Is easy to remove.
ASSEMBLY
This last part is one of the most important, because if you join bad all the parts the final effect could be really poor.
First I put the lights on the car, i used UV glue from DSPIAE, to aboid the marks from the glue. The same method i used for the sticked parts like sierra logo, glasses...
After appling this details, i assembled the bottom side with the top side. In this model is so easy, first you adjust the rear and then the front goes to his position.
Adjust the bummpers, and adjust the wheels. In this wheels you can try to push out a little the Rubber (tire) out to get in the same line of the car body. Because if the tire is not well aligned you lose a real effect.
And finally you get your model done it!
Every model has new challenges, I learn new things, but this is what I enjoy building them for. This model is also very detailed and well made, which makes the final result more spectacular.
Special greetings:
DMODELKITS
BP_SCALECARS
CHRONICMODELS
MODELCARSRALLY
JM maquetandocoches
AB_SCALECARS
DMODELKITS
BP_SCALECARS
CHRONICMODELS
MODELCARSRALLY
JM maquetandocoches
AB_SCALECARS
and many others who have given me advice at some point.
Enjoy!
Model Build By Arnau de Visa Coll - ADV_SCALEGARAGE